Foligno, pale and rasiglia
28 May 2024Foligno, Bevagna and Assisi
28 May 2024As I wander through the alleys of the historic center of Foligno, my wandering soul is enveloped in a sense of wonder and discovery. The distant sound of the bells of the Cathedral of San Feliciano pervades the air, as if the past and present were blending in an intimate embrace, making each step a journey through time. I let myself be guided through the streets of this city rich in history, and among the unexpected alleys, I find myself in a charming neighborhood along the Mills Canal, where small artisan workshops were already located since the 15th century. Under the arches of the Conce, there were grain mills, candlemakers, soap factories, tanneries, dye works, while in the upper rooms, hides and tobacco leaves were dried. But it is in the squares and alleys that I find the true beating heart of Foligno. Piazza della Repubblica welcomes me with its splendor, dominated by the majestic Palazzo del Podestà, Palazzo Orfini, and Palazzo del Comune, witnesses of the glorious past of this city. I stop to contemplate their facades, immersing myself in their majesty and millennial history. I discover that it was right here that the first copy of the divine comedy was printed by visiting the Museum of Printing, a dive into the past that fascinates and surprises. A few meters away, the Diocesan Museum, rich in artistic and religious treasures that tell the faith of this land. But above all, only today do I discover that St. Francis began his path of renunciation of earthly goods right in this square, around 1205, selling his clothes and horse to finance the restoration of the church of San Damiano and marking the beginning of his path of conversion; The commemorative plaque on the Palazzo delle Canoniche recalls this important episode in the history of St. Francis.
But it is the unexpected hidden corners that fascinate me: Piazza San Domenico and the auditorium with its imposing Gothic facade, is a place of peace and contemplation, where art and spirituality blend in a unique harmony, not to mention the Church of Santa Maria infra Portas, with its Romanesque portal that tells millennial stories and hidden secrets within its ancient walls. I let myself be tempted by the many places that characterize the city's nightlife and the streets of Foligno, offering myself delicacies of Umbrian cuisine and gastronomic delights. In every corner, I find an opportunity to savor the best of local Norcia culinary tradition, accompanying every bite with a good glass of wine from nearby Montefalco, the pride of these generous lands. And between one taste and another, I cannot neglect the artistic gems hidden in the streets of Foligno. The Oratory of the Nunziatella, with its works by the famous painter "Perugino," is a true treasure to discover, while the Oratory of the Gonfalone gives me unique emotions with its frescoed walls.
But it is at the Trinci Palace that I find myself daydreaming, admiring its imposing facade and characteristic inner courtyard. Among its walls hide precious paintings by Gentile da Fabriano, which transport me to another era, in another dimension. I cannot leave Foligno without a visit to the Cathedral of San Feliciano, where there is a canopy that is a copy of the main altar present in the Basilica of San Pietro in Rome, and to the Church of San Nicolò, where a famous Renaissance altarpiece awaits me with its timeless charm. But before saying goodbye to this charming city, I take a walk along the banks of the Topino, where nature reveals itself in all its beauty. The river flows placidly, reflecting the rays of the sun filtering through the branches of the trees. The sound of flowing water is a reassuring melody, while the intense green of the surrounding nature envelops me in a regenerating embrace. It is here, along this idyllic watercourse, that I find the peace and serenity I was looking for, thus completing my journey through the wonderful Foligno. Surrender to the pleasures of a unique land. Umbria is not a destination, it's a journey without rules, a dream to live without limits.
